Château Montrose 1990
Review of the Estate
Chateau Montrose began as a plot of heather-covered land that was bequeathed to Thèodore Dumoulin by his father Etienne. The land at Chateau Montrose was originally part of the Calon-Sègur estate that Etienne acquired in 1778. By 1820, Thèodore had constructed a small chateau and vine plantings were already underway. Eventually the area was split from the greater Calon-Sègur estate and was renamed as Montrose-Sègur. By 1855 it had expanded to 50 hectares and was known simply as Chateau Montrose. At this point it was also classified as a deuxième cru (Second Growth).
Eventually Chateau Montrose was sold to M. Mathieu Dolfus, shortly after the passing of Thèodore. Under Dolfus, the cellars at Chateau Montrose were greatly expanded and he invested heavily in estate developments and infrastructure. This included the creation of a programme that provided benefits for vineyard workers and the construction of a small railway to transport wine from Chateau Montrose down to the riverside.
Soon after Dolfus passed away, in 1896 Chateau Montrose came into the ownership of the Charmolue family, who safely shepherded the chateau through the phylloxera epidemic and two World Wars, including the recovery process after the estate suffered bomb damage in WWII.
In 2006 Chateau Montrose was purchased from the Charmolue family by brothers Martin & Olivier Bouygues and they remain the current owners. However, in recognition of the important role that the Charmolue family played in the history of Chateau Montrose, the name of the estate's second wine, La Dame de Montrose (named for Yvonne Charmolue, who ran the estate from 1944 to 1960) remains unchanged.
Vineyard
Surface area: 169.2 acres
Grape Varieties: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot
Average age of vines: 43 years
Density of plantation: 9,000 vines per hectare
Average yields: 42 hectoliters per hectare
Average cases produced: 16,500 per year
Plateau of maturity: 3 - 25 years post-1970, 15 - 25 years pre-1970
Château Montrose 1990 Reviews / Tasting Notes
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate
Point Score: 100
Tasted at the Montrose vertical in London, the 1990 Montrose is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc (almost identical to the 1989 Montrose) and picked between 14 September and 3 October. It has a formidable reputation and for years it overshadowed the 1989. That said, it is well known that there are incidences of brettanomyces that compromise some bottles and the one bottle in London showed just a tincture of this. It still merited a score of 97/100, though it only served to highlight the ethereal delineation of the 1989. Then literally a couple of days later. I was served blind a magnum of the 1990 Montrose in Cape Town, which had been purchased on release and stored in perfect conditions. Now, here was the real deal, unfettered by any infection, a regal Saint Estephe. It shows approximately the same evolution as the 1989 in bottle, but unsurprisingly showed less bricking in magnum format. The bouquet is cut from a different cloth to the 1989 and attests to that warm vintage: hickory, clove, undergrowth and wild fennel, later garrigue-like scents and terracotta, the latter two more pronounced on the bottle format compared to the youthful magnum. The palate is full-bodied and powerful, yet the balance is perfect, a ballerina-like poise with the structure of the Forth Bridge. It is a multi-layered Montrose that offers enormous length, fresh and vibrant with the magnum demonstrating tangible mineralite and tension as it fans out on the crescendo of a finish-a fanfare for Saint Estephe in all its glory. Improving all the time in the glass, this example of 1990 Montrose is a privilege to behold. One can speculate whether larger formats are a "safer bet" in terms of experiencing this behemoth without any brettanomyces. Perhaps. However, if you do come across the 1990 Montrose like this, you are in the presence of a king. Tasted January 2017.
Wine Spectator
Point Score: 94
Dark in color with decadent aromas of ripe fruit, earth and amazing mint and spearmint undertones, yet there's also an underlying meaty funkiness. Full-bodied, with layers of very ripe fruit and velvety tannins. Massive and caressing. A big, powerful wine. Like velvet.--Non-blind Chateau Montrose vertical. Drink now. 18,000 cases made.
Stephen Tanzer - Vinous
Point Score: 95
Full ruby-red. Wild, exotic aromas of crystallized redcurrant, leather, tobacco and minerals; distinctly exotic, even overripe. Then lush, sweet and opulent, with an atypically velvety texture for Montrose. But extremely young and structured, finishing with powerful tannins and great grip and length. Almost California-like in style; in Bordeaux, they'd refer to the fruit expression of this wine as "original," which is not necessarily high praise. Drink 2008 through 2030.